Ajanta and Ellora are two groups of rock-cut caves in Maharashtra, near Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar (formerly Aurangabad). Ajanta is a set of Buddhist caves known for ancient paintings, while Ellora has Buddhist, Hindu and Jain caves, including the huge Kailasa temple. UNESCO listed both as World Heritage Sites in 1983.
Quick facts
| Feature | Ajanta | Ellora |
|---|---|---|
| Number of caves | About 30 | 34 main caves |
| Religion | Buddhist | Buddhist, Hindu and Jain |
| Period | Roughly 2nd century BCE to about 5th century CE (two phases) | Roughly 6th to 10th century CE |
| Known for | Wall paintings and sculpture | Kailasa temple (Cave 16) |
| Distance from the city | About 100 km | About 30 km |
| UNESCO listing | 1983 | 1983 |
Ajanta Caves: the story
Ajanta’s caves are cut into a horseshoe-shaped cliff above the Waghora river. Scholars usually divide their creation into two phases. The earlier caves date from about the 2nd century BCE to the 1st century CE, during the time of the Satavahanas, and belong to the Hinayana or early Buddhist tradition. The later group was carved mostly in the 5th century CE under the patronage of the Vakataka dynasty and their ministers, and shows Mahayana Buddhism with images of the Buddha and bodhisattvas.
The caves are of two kinds. Chaityas are prayer halls with a stupa at the back, and viharas are monasteries with a hall surrounded by small cells for monks. Everything was chiselled out of solid basalt rock by hand, working from the top down.
The paintings
Ajanta is most famous for its murals, painted on plastered cave walls. Many scenes illustrate the Jataka tales, the stories of the Buddha’s earlier births, and the life of the Buddha. The paintings show royal courts, travellers, dancers and animals, and are admired for their flowing lines and expression. Well-known figures include the Bodhisattva Padmapani and Vajrapani in Cave 1. Because of their age, the paintings are fragile, and photography with flash is not permitted. Rules on cameras change, so check on the day.
Why was Ajanta forgotten?
The caves seem to have been left unused after the 5th or 6th century as patronage ended, and the forest slowly covered them. In 1819 a British officer, John Smith, came upon them during a hunting trip, and word spread. Early copies of the paintings made in the 19th century were damaged by a fire in London, which is why conservation became a major concern later.
Ellora Caves: the story
Ellora is different in character. Instead of one religion, it displays three living traditions side by side. The caves are carved into a basalt ridge, and are conventionally numbered from south to north. Caves 1 to 12 are Buddhist and were carved mainly between the 5th and 8th centuries. Caves 13 to 29 are Hindu, mostly 7th to 9th century. Caves 30 to 34 are Jain, and are generally dated to the 9th and 10th centuries.
Kailasa Temple, Cave 16
The Kailasa temple is the showpiece. It is not a cave in the usual sense. It is a full temple, dedicated to Shiva and modelled on Mount Kailash, carved downward from the top of a hillside into a single rock. The work is attributed to the Rashtrakuta king Krishna I in the 8th century, and probably took many decades and several generations of craftsmen to finish. Its courtyard, towers, elephants and large relief panels, including a scene of Ravana shaking Mount Kailash, are what visitors remember. Exact figures for the amount of rock removed are quoted widely but vary by source, so treat them as estimates.
Buddhist and Jain highlights
Cave 10, known as the Vishvakarma cave, is a large Buddhist chaitya hall with a ribbed ceiling that imitates wooden beams. Cave 12 is a three-storey monastery. The Jain caves, especially Cave 32 (Indra Sabha), are smaller but richly decorated.
Why are they together?
The two sites are about 100 kilometres apart and are usually visited on separate days. Ajanta shows the earlier Buddhist period and painting. Ellora shows how sculpture and architecture evolved, and how several religions coexisted in the same region over several centuries. The Deccan trade routes passing through the area helped fund both.
Visiting tips
Most visitors base themselves in Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar. Ajanta is a 2 to 3 hour drive, and a full morning at the site is needed. Ellora is closer and needs about half a day. Both are managed by the Archaeological Survey of India. Weekly closing days differ between the two, and I could not confirm current ticket prices, so check the ASI website or the local tourism office before travelling. The monsoon season, from July to September, makes the surroundings green and waterfalls near Ajanta flow, but can also make travel harder. Winter is the most comfortable season.
Wear comfortable shoes, since there are steps to climb, and carry water. Ajanta has a shuttle service from the parking area for part of the way, but availability can change.
Ajanta caves: a few caves worth knowing
Cave 1 and Cave 2 hold some of the best-preserved paintings, and Cave 16 and Cave 17 are known for their Jataka scenes and royal court paintings. Cave 19 has a finely carved chaitya facade, and Cave 26 has a large reclining Buddha, shown at the time of his passing into mahaparinirvana. Caves 9, 10, 12 and 13 belong to the early phase and are simpler, without images of the Buddha.
How the caves were carved
The craftsmen began from the top of the rock face and worked down, so that they would not need scaffolding. They used iron chisels and hammers and removed rock in layers. Natural light was often used to see the work, and some reports say that reflected light from water or metal was used to illuminate the dark interiors, though that is a popular explanation rather than a documented fact. The same method was used at Ellora, on a bigger scale.
Conservation today
Both sites face problems from tourist numbers, moisture and bats. The ASI has restricted flash photography and the number of people in the painted caves at one time, and a replica set of caves was developed near Ajanta to reduce pressure on the originals. Rules on this change, so please follow staff instructions at the site.
Conclusion
Ajanta shows what ancient Indian painting looked like, and Ellora shows what stone carvers could do when given time and royal support. Together they tell the story of the Deccan from the Satavahanas to the Rashtrakutas, and are among the best places in India to understand the country’s art history first-hand.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Which is older, Ajanta or Ellora?
Ajanta is older. Its earliest caves date to around the 2nd century BCE, while Ellora’s caves are mostly from the 6th to 10th century CE.
Who built the Kailasa temple at Ellora?
It is attributed to the Rashtrakuta king Krishna I in the 8th century, though work likely continued under later rulers.
Who discovered the Ajanta caves?
A British officer, John Smith, came across them in 1819 during a hunting expedition, though local people knew of them.
Are Ajanta and Ellora UNESCO sites?
Yes, both were inscribed as World Heritage Sites in 1983.
How many caves are there at Ajanta and Ellora?
Ajanta has about 30 caves, and Ellora has 34 main caves.
